After driving over the Confederation Bridge, we wanted a full day to explore Prince Edward Island which is a tall order. Like many of these areas, you will likely decide you want to come back and spend more time in each. PEI is quite different from the national parks and one-of-a-kind geological formations of New Brunswick. You are immediately struck with the pastoral rolling hills of farmland surrounded by a variety of grassy, sand dune beaches and red sand beaches.
Our first stop just to the east of the bridge was Argyle Shore Provincial Park. A quiet little park with a short set of stairs down to a red sand beach for a quick stroll. Be sure to walk all the way to the right to see the green moss on the red rocks which appear almost fluorescent against the sand and water. From here, there are really two options for your day if you only have one to spend. If you have two days, even better as you could do both options.
Our first option was to cross the province to the northwest and visit the red shores of Darnley Beach near the Twin Shores Camping Area – with red cliffs and formations similar to what you might see in the Bay of Fundy. Followed by a stop at the Green Gables Heritage Site (famed for Anne of Green Gables) and then lunch and strolling the Prince Edward Island Preserve Company.
Or we could head to Charlottetown and visit the city along with a long, relaxing lunch on Victoria Row – a collection of historic buildings and patio dining accompanied by live music. We chose this option given how busy our day before was. It was only a short wait for a table at John Brown Grille and we were enjoying their award-winning (PEI Porktoberfest champs!) BBQ Braised Pulled Pork Tacos.
Whichever option you choose, be sure to plan for a quick drive over to the flagship Cows Creamery. Known for their quirky T-shirt collection (our favorite was the cow wearing hockey gear with the caption “Moo, eh?”) and to try their signature Wowie Cowie (vanilla, English toffee, chocolate flakes and moo crunch) or Gooey Mooey (basically the same but with caramel cups added).
For lodging and dinner, we could not find a place more unique than the Inn at Bay Fortune. Owned and operated by famed Canadian chef Michael Smith, this small lodge is all about food. If you can, try to book early and get the North Tower 3 or North Tower 2. These two rooms have their own balconies looking out over Bay Fortune and make for a great place to let your dinner settle. You will need this time as the signature event at the Inn is the nightly Fireworks Feast. Named not for actual fireworks, but the prix fixe meal is all prepared from locally grown or sourced ingredients and then cooked over open flame.
To classify this as just a prix fixe meal is a disservice. It is really an entire evening of entertainment. Starting at 5:00, the Inn offers a full tour of the grounds to visit and see how this farm-to-table-to-inn operates. 6:00 begins the Oyster Hour with craft beers, sangria, wine and fresh from the ocean oysters with a small serving of proprietary Bloody Mary Salt. Along with cheers for each person who tries their first-ever oyster.
Finally, right before dinner, Chef Michael and the guests (usually 60 to 70 eating communally at long tables) come out to the lawn where he welcomed everyone and gave a very touching toast to being grateful for the things we have. A quick champagne toast and then it is a three hour meal with courses varying every evening based upon what is in season. Of course, you can expect a salad, a chowder (so good), a seafood plate, a meat course, along with a desert – all while meeting the other guests around you.
The next day may have been one of the most perfect days of our trip when taken from beginning to end. We began by making our way to the Greenwich Dunes only thirty minutes from the inn. It was a short hike of a mile or so to walk out onto the boardwalks crossing the water and grassy marshlands ending on the sandy dune beaches. If nothing else, it was a good way to walk off the food from the night before.
Afterwards, we made our way to Tranquility Cove Adventures in Georgetown to check in for a 1:00 Giant Bar Clam Dig. I’m not sure we had ever seen TripAdvisor reviews this high for an activity and we couldn’t see how clam digging could be that highly rated – but decided to trust the reviews and we are glad we did. The owner is Perry who is a former lobster boat captain. He converted his boat to an extremely comfortable ride for about ten people (covered if there’s wind or rain) and one of the cleanest boats we’ve seen.
The day starts with stopping to pull a trap to hold a live lobster, then a crab trap and then finally a line of mussels – learning about each as you go. It’s then on to Boughton Island where along the way, Perry (and his nephew also named Perry which made it easy…) allowed the guests to drive the lobster boat and told wonderful stories of his grandfather, father and he all growing up on Boughton Island.
Once you arrive and have put on shorty wet suits and shoes, it’s time to get into the water with rakes and start searching for small holes in the sand where the clams breathe. A quick rake and you are pulling up some of the largest clams you’ve ever seen. All by a red sand shoreline with eagles and seagulls flying overhead. The particular day we went, Perry joked “it’s NEVER been this easy before” as we were the first charter this year to the beach so you really only needed to drag your rake to find the clams.
For an hour or so, we raked and found more clams than anyone could possibly eat but also saw crabs, lobsters and a jellyfish – which Perry picked up to allow everyone to touch (not the stinging part of course). It was then onto the beach to try a bit of raw clam (if you wanted) and then to boil them with fresh sea water. While the clams cooked, we had time to search the beach for sea glass of all colors – light blue, white, brown and red. I’m not sure if they are always this easy to find but everyone found at least one momento for the day.
Once the clams were ready, you were taught how to clean them in the ocean and then eat them right from the shell. To be honest, we don’t like clams but it was something we had to try at least once along with drinking the au jus from the pot. Afterwards, it was a ride back to the harbor along with more stories about the 500 person town. Once in town, we were given the tip to head one block into town to the Artisan Shoreline Design Studio where we found Pete and his wife who were happy to make our newfound sea glass into necklaces.
Wrapping the sea glass in silver, Pete then tumbled it with chemicals to make it bond and shine while we talked with the super friendly couple about the amazing view from the back of their shop. Pete even allowed our daughter to work with a small blow torch to expand a starfish ring she liked but needed to be cut and resized for her small finger.
After walking the dunes, searching for clams and making our own sea glass necklaces, we grabbed some pizza from a local shop and headed back to get ready for our trip to Halifax and Tidal Bore Rafting.
And for more details on surrounding areas see our full itinerary for the Maine and the Maritimes or destination notes for Bar Harbor, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Cape Neddick.
