Bar Harbor, Acadia

This entire trip started based upon how many great reviews we heard from friends regarding Acadia National Park and Bar Harbor. When we found out Bar Harbor had the #1 rated July 4th celebration in the nation (at least according to the Today Show), we were pretty much set. The key was figuring out where to go from there and what else we could find in the area. For some it may be a trip through Maine. Others may head west towards New Hampshire and Vermont. And some northwest to Quebec.

However, once we found out what Tidal Bore Rafting was (see Nova Scotia), we knew that was our route so the rest was a matter of planning our trip from Bar Harbor to Halifax. For us, flying into and out of Boston was the easiest but others could just as easily travel into Portland or other areas. We made the drive our first day and chose the boutique, upscale West Street Hotel for its balcony views directly out over the harbor and the fireworks.

Travel note – July 4th is extremely popular so be sure to book your rooms as soon as possible. In addition, the fireworks only happen about 50% of the time on July 4th due to weather, wind or fog. So be sure you account for both July 4th and July 5th. We simply planned an open day of hiking and we could then use it either day depending upon when the July 4th activities occurred.

For our first full day, we scheduled a tour with Acadia Air Tours. We had never seen a company who offered both open-air biplane rides or glider rides over a national park – and we love to see a park for the first time from the air (see Grand Canyon). Everyone opted for the biplane, but only two people can ride at a time so we did back to back flights. Flying for an hour with nothing but the air blowing and a small windshield in front of you (the pilot actually sits in the back) makes for an amazing way to see this park for the first time.

Afterwards, we were all hungry and had planned to stop at the Travelin Lobster on the drive back. There are lobster pounds everywhere but we chose this one for the reviews and outdoor tables. Kids can play corn hole while waiting on their food and we highly recommend trying the blueberry pie (the best we had in Maine) and the gigantic, messy whoopie pies.

Another advantage of staying at the West Street Hotel is it gives you full access to the Bar Harbor Club. It’s a short walk of one block (but we’ve walked further to on-site pools at resorts). And the pool was surprisingly open with chairs looking out over the bay and rocky shoreline. We loved it so much, we ended up spending two afternoons here. That night, we had reservations at Havana which is a high-end restaurant with lobster cakes, empanadas, steak and seafood paella.

The following day was July 4th and Bar Harbor makes this a full day event with visitors coming from hundreds of miles away. To start the morning, the Rotary Club hosts a blueberry pancake breakfast. After filling up, the parade begins from the same spot and is reminiscent of something you might have seen fifty years ago – with kids wearing hats and waiving flags; bagpipers; bands; floats; dogs; old cars and more. It is definitely a highlight of the day. Travel tip – if you plan to watch the fireworks, go ahead and put out a blanket or chairs in the morning in Agamont Park. No one will move them.

Afterwards, there is a lunch planned by the Rotary Club again – the Seafood Festival, serving full lobsters and corn – followed by the very popular lobster races. Lobsters race along what looks like a book shelf from left to right while fans wager (for charity) on the winners. The afternoon is best spent visiting the town and shops (don’t miss the most popular store – Cool as a Moose) ending with a visit to Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium where the adventurous can try lobster ice cream or the more widely appealing Moose Droppings ice cream. See our Lake Winnipesaukee post for details on the Moose Droppings flavor.

If you are staying at the West Street Hotel, be sure to call a few weeks ahead and request to be added to the guest list for watching the fireworks from their rooftop pool patio – or if you have a balcony you can simply enjoy them from your room.

The next day we started early with breakfast at Sunrise Cafe known for their wide variety of crepes. This tiny cafe only has a few tables and can become quite busy if you sleep in too late but is worth trying for their nutella, chocolate or blueberry crepes. After having flown over Acadia in a biplane, the next best ways to explore the park are biking, hiking or driving. Our first day, we chose to reserve bikes from Bar Harbor Bicycle and make the trek from their shop in town to Jordan Pond House for lunch. Be sure to make a reservation at Jordan Pond House as soon as they open for reservations during the summer. Whether you are biking there or driving, you will thank us later for not having to wait hours for a table. And enjoying their massive popovers with jelly and blueberry iced tea are a great way to enjoy the views of the pond.

Biking this route is a very active day covering approximately twenty miles and some very long uphill climbs. But there is no better way to see the winding trails of bike-only carriage roads which make this park so different from many others. And it’s hard to not imagine that at one time this was the Rockefeller’s personal summer property where only they and their guests could explore the many ponds, forests and views before it became a national park. Of course, if you want to shorten the trip, you can also choose to bike to Jordan Pond House and then simply take the Island Explorer bus back to town which comes with bike racks for just these occasions. Tired from our full day of strenuous riding, we had chosen to visit the most popular pizza joint in town for locals, Rosalie’s Pizza.

Of course, everyone should plan one day to see the Acadia National Park coastline. The park includes hiking options from beginner to expert. If you simply want to see the park, almost everyone should plan to drive the Park Loop Road with its many stops as you circle the park. We recommend also adding the easy walk along the Ocean Path Trail to see the most popular attractions including a walk down to the Sand Beach, watching Thunder Hole erupt (if the timing is right) and then on as far as you like towards Otter Cliff. Afterwards, you can complete the Park Loop Road drive ending with a curvy road to the top of Cadillac Mountain. This special overlook is the first place in the United States where the sun rises each day.

With so many activities, we wanted to end our last night with a few drinks which meant the local favorite, The Thirsty Whale (T-Shirt was a must buy). However, another option is to purchase tickets earlier in the day for a movie at the Reel Pizza Cinerama complete with couches and recliners to eat, drink and relax to a movie. Either one will cap off a great stay in Bar Harbor before we make our way across the Canadian border to New Brunswick and St. Andrews by the Sea.

And for more details on surrounding areas see our full itinerary for the Maine and the Maritimes or destination notes for New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia and Cape Neddick.