Big Bend and West Texas – Itinerary

Big Bend National Park is one of the ten least visited National Parks in the United States.  Not because it’s not worth visiting.  But only because it’s harder than most to reach – but that won’t last much longer.

The park only had about 400,000 visitors last year.  To have visited another park like Arches National Park when they had that same number of visitors, you would need to have visited that park – in 1986!!

However, it is quickly becoming “found” as it has every bit as much to offer as the other top ten parks.  As our guides told us, they are seeing 40% more bookings than the year before.  And we could easily see there being year-long wait times in ten years for excursions like canoeing and staying the night on the Rio Grande in Santa Elena Canyon between 1,500 foot walls on both sides of the border.

Travel Tip #1 – To visit this part of the country, you will likely need to fly in and out of either El Paso, Midland/Odessa (maybe but hard to get flights) or San Antonio/Austin.  El Paso being the shortest drive to the area.

We began our trip in San Antonio and returned to Dallas but the areas below are the ones you may want to consider for seeing the most of this area.

Travel Tip #2 – The people who moved to this area did not move here to have stress or adhere to schedules.  Be prepared to be very flexible on even the best made dining plans.  Restaurants open and close with little warning on a daily basis – with just a paper sign taped to the door “closed today, see you tomorrow.”

This road trip includes exploring unique West Texas towns like Marathon, Alpine, Terlingua, Lajitas, Marfa, Fort Davis and Balmorhea, as well as hiking, canoeing, camping (overnight on the Rio Grande) and scenic drives in Big Bend National Park.  Throw in a “star party” at an observatory, dinner under the stars and a Cowboy Shoot – and you have no trouble filling a week-long trip.

One last note.  There are several movies that are unique to this area – namely Fandango (1985 with Kevin Costner and Judd Nelson) and Giant (1956 with James Dean, Elizabeth Taylor and Rock Hudson).  These are great movies to watch to help prepare for your trip.  And you can even find many of the unique sights with some help – like the “Dom Rock” on the border.

Whichever fits your travels best, we hope these notes, links and maps will help to plan an amazing trip through Big Bend and West Texas.

DAY 1 – Travel to San Antonio – or El Paso

Fly into San Antonio and drive to Marathon (just under six hours)
Caverns of Sonora (optional) – Two Hour Tour, if you have time

Eat: San Antonio – Lunch – Alamo Cafe – Tortilla Soup, Queso, Fresh Tortillas with Butter (trust us, try dipping these in the queso) ($)
Eat: Marathon – Dinner – 12 Gage Restaurant – Chicken Fried Steak with Jalapeno Gravy, Filet Mignon, Ranch Water (Tequila, Cointreau, Lime Juice, Topo Chico) and Mexican Chocolate Brownie ($$$)
Stay: The Gage Hotel ($$)

DAY 2 – Alpine, Lajitas, Terlingua – Exploring, Murals, Resort

Use “Just Ahead” – GPS Phone App – Guide and notes for the region
French Grocer – Stop by to stock up on supplies – hiking, snacks, water, beer, wine
Gage Gardens – Explore the small but impressive gardens
Altuda – Target – Don’t miss this photo-op as you drive from Marathon to Alpine for the world’s smallest Target store
Alpine – Find the murals, shop, eat and/or visit the Yankee Stadium of West Texas (Kokernot Field)
Big Bend Brewing Company – Have a beer (optional)
Visit Terlingua for Dinner

Eat: V6 Coffee Shop – Marathon ($) – Peach Pecan Muffins and Mexican Mocha Latte
Eat: Snacks or the original Reata Restaurant – Alpine ($) – West Texas cuisine
Eat: Starlight Theater – Terlingua ($) – BBQ (Brisket) Sandwich, Queso, Cold Beer and Music
Stay: Lajitas Golf Resort and Spa ($$ – $$$)

DAY 3 – lajitas/big bend – hiking, scenic drive

Early Breakfast at Sunrise
Lost Mine Trail – Hiking – 4.8 Mile Hike – Three Hours
Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive – Three Hours
Chisos Basin Visitor Center and Emory Peak
Homer Wilson Ranch Overlook – View
Sotol Vista Overlook – View
Mule Ears – View
Tuff Canyon Trail – Easy one mile hike
Cerro Castolon – View
Castolon Visitor Center – Snacks, Restroom
Santa Elena Canyon – Not needed, if canoeing the next day

Eat: Espresso Y Poco Mas – Terlingua – Breakfast ($) – Breakfast Burrito/Tacos, French Press Coffee
Eat: Snacks or Lunch at Chisos Visitor Center ($)
Eat: Long Draw Pizza – Terlingua ($)
Stay: Lajitas Golf Resort and Spa ($$ – $$$)

DAY 4 – big bend – canoeing rio grande and camping overnight in Santa Elena Canyon

Angell Expeditions – Boomerang Overnight, Two Day Canoe Trip ($$$)

Eat: Lajitas Resort – Breakfast ($)
Eat: Lunch and Dinner on the Rio Grande – Included
Stay: Rio Grande/Big Bend Camping ($$ – $$$)

DAY 5 – lajitas, big bend – canoeing rio grande

Angell Expeditions – Boomerang Overnight, Two Day Canoe Trip ($$$)

Eat: Lajitas Resort – Breakfast ($)
Eat: Breakfast and Lunch on the Rio Grande – Included
Eat: Candelilla Cafe – Lajitas Resort ($$) – Jalapeno Mac N Cheese, Prickly Pear Margaritas, Chicken Fried Steak
Drinks – Thirsty Goat Saloon – Music ($)
Stay: Lajitas Golf Resort and Spa ($$ – $$$)

DAY 6 – lajitas – shooting range, zip line, pool, dinner under the stars

Cowboy Action Shoot ($$$)
Visit Lajitas Cemetery, Lajitas General Store, Clay Henry (Mayor of Lajitas)
Horseback Riding – Optional ($$$)
Zip-Lining – Optional ($$)
Relax by Pool
Dinner Under the Stars ($$$)

Eat: Lajitas General Store – Lunch ($$) – Sandwiches and Burgers
Eat: Dinner Under the Starts ($$$) – Live Music and a Dutch Oven Meal by campfire – Prime Rib
Stay: Lajitas Golf Resort and Spa ($$ – $$$)

DAY 7 – Marfa – River Road Drive, Dom Rock, El Cosmico

Drive the scenic River Road from Lajitas to Presidio and then to Marfa
Dom Rock – Short hike/stop (be careful) to see the view and rock from the movie, Fandango.
Tipi Rest Stop – Tee pee rest area
El Cosmico – Shop and see the Airstream and vintage trailer motel

Eat: Lajitas Resort – Breakfast ($)
Eat: Jett’s Grill – Hotel Paisano – Dinner ($$) – Chicken Fried Steak with jalapeno gravy, Texas poutine fries (with gravy and green chiles) and Mexican street corn
Stay: Colomo – Marfa Airbnb ($$) or Hotel Saint George ($$)

DAY 8 – marfa – chinati foundation, galleries, prada marfa, town

Chinati Foundation – Self Viewing or Tours
Donald Judd – 15 Untitled Works in Concrete
Donald Judd – 100 Untitled Works in Aluminum
Robert Irwin – Dawn to Dusk
Drive to/from Prada Marfa – Photos
Cemeterio De La Merced – If you are a Fandango Movie fan – Photos
El Paisano Hotel – Historic Hotel associated with the filming of Giant
Marfa Book Company – Shopping
Mano Mercantile – Indigo dipped clothing and more – Shopping
Cobra Rock Boot Company – Shopping
Communitie – Shopping
Wrong Marfa – Shopping
Garza Marfa – Home Decor
McDonald Observatory – Star Party and Gazing – Must Pre-Book
Marfa Lights – Optional

Eat: Marfa Burrito – Breakfast ($) – Primo Burrito (Beans, Potatoes, Onions, Tomatoes, Salsa, Cheese) or Bean and Cheese Burrito; Free Coffee
Eat: La Playa, Food Shark or Capri – Lunch ($)
Eat: Pizza Foundation – Dinner ($) – Call Ahead!
Stay: Colomo – Marfa Airbnb ($$) or Hotel Saint George ($$)

DAY 9 – marfa, fort davis, balmorhea – visit historic fort, swim in spring-fed pool, night out 

Fort Davis – Visit Historic Fort and Optional Hike
Balmorhea – Swim in one of the world’s largest spring-fed pools
Dinner and Pub Crawl – Cochineal, Planet Marfa, Capri, Al Campo, Bar Nadar, Bar Saint George and finally the Lost Horse Saloon (late night)

Eat: Do Your Thing – Breakfast ($) – Coffee and Avocado, Nutella or Cinnamon on sourdough toast
Eat: Fort Davis Drug Store – Lunch ($) – Burgers and Shakes; or Hebert’s Caboose Ice Cream Shop ($)
Eat: Cochineal – Dinner ($$$) – Mesquite-grilled Filet Mignon, Herbed Escargots and Bread Pudding with Date Compote
Stay: Colomo – Marfa Airbnb ($$) or Hotel Saint George ($$)

DAY 10 – marfa – long drive home

Chata Ortega’s – If you are a Fandango Movie fan – Photos
Monahans Sandhills State Park – Sledding on Sand Dunes

Eat: Buns N Roses – Breakfast ($)
Eat: Pody’s BBQ – Pecos TX ($)
Stay: Hotel Settles – Big Spring, TX ($$) of Your own bed (-)

And for more details on surrounding areas see our destination notes for Marathon and Alpine, Big Bend and Lajitas, Marfa and even west to Carlsbad and Guadalupe.

BIG BEND AND WEST TEXAS – TRIP SUMMARY – LINKS AND REVIEWS

TRIPADVISOR – THINGS TO DO

• Caverns of Sonora – Sonora, Texas
• Gage Gardens – Marathon, Texas
• Big Bend Brewing Company – Alpine, Texas
• Lost Mine Trail – Big Bend National Park, Texas
• Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive – Big Bend National Park, Texas
• Tuff Canyon Trail – Big Bend National Park, Texas
• Angell Expeditions –  Big Bend National Park, Texas
• Santa Elena Canyon – Big Bend National Park, Texas
• El Cosmico – Marfa, Texas
• Chinati Foundation – Marfa, Texas
• McDonald Observatory – Fort Davis, Texas
• Marfa Mystery Lights – Marfa, Texas
• Fort Davis National Historic Site – Fort Davis, Texas
• Monahans Sandhills State Park – Monahans, Texas

YELP – RESTAURANTS

• Alamo Cafe – San Antonio
• 12 Gage Restaurant – Marathon
• V6 Coffee Bar – Marathon
• Reata – Alpine
• Starlight Theatre Restaurant And Saloon – Terlingua
• Espresso Y Poco Mas – Terlingua
• Long Draw Pizza – Terlingua
• Candelilla Cafe And Thirsty Goat Saloon – Lajitas
• Lajitas General Stores – Lajitas
• Jetts Grill – Marfa
• Marfa Burrito – Marfa
• La Playa – Marfa
• Food Shark – Marfa
• Capri – Marfa
• Pizza Foundation – Marfa
• Cochineal – Marfa
• Planet Marfa – Marfa
• Al Campo – Marfa
• Bar Saint George – Marfa
• Lost Horse Saloon – Marfa
• Do Your Thing Coffee – Marfa
• Fort Davis Drugstore And Hotel – Fort Davis
• Heberts Caboose – Fort Davis
• Buns N Roses – Marfa
• Podys Bbq – Pecos

TRIPADVISOR – HOTELS

• Gage Hotel – Marathon, Texas
• Lajitas Golf Resort – Lajitas, Texas
• COLOMO|MARFA™ – Marfa, Texas
• Hotel Saint George – Marfa, Texas
• Hotel Settles – Big Spring, Texas

map – big bend and west texas