Heading back to the U.S. after exploring the Maritimes meant we had a bit of a long drive to make up some ground after driving all of the way into Nova Scotia to Halifax and Lunenburg. We decided five or six hours was the most we wanted to try including a border crossing so we decided to stay one night at the Samoset Resort in Rockland, ME and then two nights at the Cliff House in Cape Neddick, ME.
The first few hours were uneventful but we did have one planned stop at the Penobscot Narrows Bridge Observatory. This suspension bridge is one of only three in the world where you can visit the top of the suspension tower to an observatory deck. Given we had to drive right by it anyway, it made sense to stop in and is worth the quick ride to the top for the views.
Our next stop was Camden. Having seen this town on our way through earlier in the trip to Bar Harbor, we knew we wanted to stop and spend some time in the town. As it turns out, the Harbor Arts and Books Fair was going on that day in Camden and the North Atlantic Blues Festival was wrapping up in Rockland. Did we mention there are a lot of festivals during the summer? We enjoyed walking this small town for a few hours visiting the fair, the docks and the unique store, Sea Bags, where they make beach bags out of old sails. We included a link below so you can see them.
We then headed to the Samoset Resort to check in and spend some time at the pool. This resort appeared quite popular with locals from the east coast and had sweeping views of the ocean from the pool area – along with games everywhere (bocce ball, volleyball, soccer, etc.) for the kids. You can also take the hike out the rock jetty boardwalk to the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse. But beware, it’s a bit deceptive as it looks much closer than the 7/8 mile pier it is – and you will need to watch where you step most of the way as it is completely made of rock boulders and cracks between them.
The next day, the Home Kitchen Café in Rockland is known for it’s breakfast and there is any easy turn off along the way to the Maine Maritime Museum where you can see the Lobstermobile (a VW Bug with a large lobster covering the top of the car). What makes this detour interesting is it also takes you right by the shipyards where you can see them building massive cruise ships and boats. Or for lunch, you will pass by the renowned Red’s Eats in Wiscasset in case you haven’t had a lobster roll yet.
Where we spent most of our time that morning was in Freeport at the headquarters of L.L. Bean. The giant duck boots out front are worth the photo and they have outlet stores, home stores, their flagship store and more. The flagship is open 24 hours so you can stop in regardless of when you pass by. We were a bit hungry after buying some jackets and sweaters (which they will kindly ship for you so you don’t have to worry about luggage) so we stopped at Isabella’s Café & Bakery for coffee and sticky buns in the small town.
If you wanted to visit Kennebunkport for the day, you could make that detour here as well to see St. Anne’s Church, George Bush Sr’s home or stroll the town center. For notes to Kennebunkport and Ogunquit, just click the link to our previous trip to that area.
For our final two days, we simply wanted to relax and enjoy the coast so the Cliff House was the perfect choice. Travel tip – if you can, try to get a room in the Ledges building on either the third of fourth floor. These rooms look out directly over the cliffs onto the ocean and make for the most amazing views and sounds from your patio in the evening.
At the Cliff House, you can relax next to the infinity pool looking out over the ocean; play in the family pool; stroll the cliff side paths; or visit the beach in Ogonquit. One helpful link would be to Stacey’s Beach Caddie where you can arrange for a golf cart ride to and from the area to avoid parking.
We simply relaxed by the pool the entire day and watched the ocean at night. The next day, we strolled the paths and walked on the rocks out to the ocean. Finally, what might have seemed like a negative but was perfect for us – a large storm rolled in with winds and pounding rain which drove everyone into Nubb’s Lobster Shack where there are free games for the guests (table shuffleboard, air hockey, pinball, etc.) We all enjoyed hot dogs on buttered rolls and more whoopie pies while watching the storm through the windows. After having been so lucky with weather throughout the trip, it was great to get to see an ocean storm and the pounding waves.
Finally, the Tiller is the onsite fine-dining option with a wall of windows looking out over the ocean making it the perfect place to enjoy one last lobster. The next day we had to drive back to Boston for our flight home after two weeks of exploring Maine and the Maritimes.
And for more details on surrounding areas see our full itinerary for the Maine and the Maritimes or destination notes for Bar Harbor, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and Nova Scotia.
