Getting to Halifax and Nova Scotia from Prince Edward Island meant either heading back across the Confederation Bridge or taking the ferry. Both routes were about the same time so we decided to drive but really either option will work. Nova Scotia is very large and varied so where you stay may be defined by what you want to do. We chose Halifax as our destination due to proximity to the city itself, Tidal Bore Rafting, Peggy’s Cove and Lunenburg. Other options might include more national parks to the far west. The wine country to the northwest. Or further to the northeast if you are heading on to Cape Breton. For us, Lunenburg was the furthest point we could make on our trip and still get back in a decent amount of time.
After the long drive to Halifax, we checked in to the Hollis Halifax and immediately made the one block walk to the waterfront. The waterfront reminded us of a smaller, much less crowded San Francisco wharf. Our first stop was Beavertails for what are large, oval donuts covered in chocolate, nutella, hazelnut or cheesecake. You’re on vacation – so we recommend trying several. Our favorite was the Triple Dip with Chocolate Hazelnut spread, peanut butter and Reese’s Pieces.
Next stop was the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. The museum houses an entire wing dedicated to the Titanic where you can see deck chairs, read about the accounts of the tragedy, see the rooms of the various levels of the ship and more. There are exhibits dedicated to the history of the Halifax Explosion (two ships wrecking and setting off explosives reaching far into the city) and the wrecks all along the dangerous coastline from fishing boats to passenger vessels to military ships.
We then headed up the hill to the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site to tour the compound complete with vintage Red Cross vehicles, bag pipers and a full re-creation of a wartime trench. Circling back down the hill around the historic Town Clock, it was time for a nice dinner on the harbor at the Bicycle Thief. Reservations are recommended and the restaurant is upscale; loud with lively discussions and bustling making for a fun place to rest and enjoy their staples of Calamari (best we have ever had), Beef Short Rib and Butterscotch Caramel Cake.
The next morning was an hour drive to the Shubenacadie River Runners for tidal bore rafting. Again, be sure to check the tide charts as this activity varies greatly based upon what time of the month you arrive for either high tides or low tides. We had planned this stop to be sure we arrived during the highest tides and what they call the “Super Wild Ride”.
A bit on Tidal Bore Rafting. The Maritimes have the highest tides in the world. That means this particular river in Maitland, NS sees what is called the tidal bore as the tide comes in. You can actually see the two foot wave entering the channel and funneling into this river which then sloshes back and forth creating six to seven-foot waves of chocolate-milk-looking muddy water. “Tidal Bore Rafting” is where you take a zodiac boat and simply run around back and forth through the waves flying up the waves and crashing down into the muddy water. As a friend best described it to us, it’s the Canadian version of “mudding”. It’s very physical as you hold on to the ropes and might be described as reverse white water rafting.
After checking in, we were issued rain coats (just to keep warm – as you will get soaked no matter what) and life preservers. It’s then onto the boats where you head out and dock on the sand bar as the water is so low. As the tidal bore arrives, the boat lifts and you ride it into the river eventually jumping out in front of the wave and then riding around and cutting straight through the choppiest rapids.
On this trip, the biplane in Acadia was unique; whale watching in New Brunswick was beautiful; clam digging in PEI was an amazing full-day but tidal bore rafting was the most exhilarating. One tip – you will be covered from head to toe in muddy water, so we brought clothes we knew we could throw out after showering. Be sure to bring some soap, shampoo and a towel – and to be pretty tired afterwards. We’ll also add we thought the two-hour tour was the perfect amount of time. After an hour of running through the rapids continuously, you will have had the full experience.
For lunch, the Frieze and Roy General Store is right around the corner and makes for a great stop for grilled cheese and BLT’s along with some soda and chips from the oldest general store in Canada.
The next stop was a drive down to Peggy’s Cove, the most famous lighthouse in the Maritimes. Be sure to plan to stop a few times to look out over the William E. deGarthe Memorial Provincial Park as you drive in which has the appearance of something like the top of an alpine glacier. The one downside is Peggy’s Cove is very crowded with visitors but we did love the view and especially the surrounding coastline and boats.
If you have more time, you may also want to head down to the Crystal Crescent Beach, a white sand beach many would not expect to find in Nova Scotia. For us, we were hungry and wanted to be sure to try the native comfort food of Halifax – the donair (pronounced dough-nair). We asked at the hotel who had the best Donair which led to a very heated debate with the staff between King of Donair, Johnny K’s or Tony’s Donair. We finally made our choice and picked Tony’s on the corner of the Halifax Commons (a public park and athletic fields). A donair is quite similar to a gyro made with a pita and sliced beef but with a slightly sweet garlic sauce on it. We ate every bite and then debated why donairs are not available everywhere.
In the morning, we packed and headed down the road one hour to Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for it’s colorfully painted buildings. If you’re looking for a place to spend a quiet, relaxing weekend in this area, this is the place to do it. After a number of photos and visiting the local shops and books stores, we made a quick visit to the Ironworks Distillery in town for a quick sampling. And then lunch at the Salt Shaker Deli which can get quite busy if you don’t arrive a bit early. For lunch, we highly recommend the Dip Trio with Pita (which was quite a bit) and their fish (fried cod) or hummus sandwich while sitting on the patio or inside on a cool day.
For those with more time, other options in the area include a visit to the Blue Rocks for photos or on to the Ovens for a quick hike. As Lunenburg was the furthest point of our trip, we had to start heading back which meant a drive back to Moncton where we arrived on the last day of the Inspire Festival where the murals throughout the city were now finished. We loved spending an hour on this “scavenger hunt” finding the various art-covered walls throughout the city. And then a nice, long dinner and bottle of wine at the Windjammer steak house before our drive back to Maine.
And for more details on surrounding areas see our full itinerary for the Maine and the Maritimes or destination notes for Bar Harbor, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and Cape Neddick.
